I did a thing.

landy1 landy2

Introducing my new to me 1998 Land Rover Discovery One. It’s old, leaky, problematic, and I love it. I picked it up a couple weeks ago and have been working to get it road worthy. I think it will make a nice addition to the car family.

The problems are as follows:

  • Loud squeaky noise from rear drivers side wheel well.
  • Seven check engine lights.
  • Leaky motor.
  • Leaks windshield washer fluid whenever you fill it past a certain point.
  • Mirror was an auto-dimmer that broke and leaked fluid to the mirror portion.
  • High pitched squeak coming from drivers side front wheel well, that couldn’t be heard until after fixing the problem in the rear.
  • Rear windows didn’t work.
  • Front windshield is cracked.


Here’s what I’ve fixed:

Rear windows have a common fault on the Discovery I window control board, where one of the circuits becomes de-soldered and looses the connection. This was a relatively easy fix after figuring out what caused the issue.

Rear wheel noise was fixed just by replacing the pads, there wasn’t any material left on the brake pads, and now it’s whisper quiet.

After routine maintenance I’m down to one check engine light, for an O2 sensor.

Blue Sea Systems – DC Voltmeter

I’ve been a fan of Blue Sea Systems gear for a while now, they make things that are built for the marine environment. My thought process is what works out on the open ocean will surely perform in our vehicles. I bought one of their brand new Mini DC Voltmeters. This will be my first impressions of the thing and general info.

From the Packaging:

Blue Sea Systems

Mini OLED DC Voltmeter

Monitors DC Voltage

Bright, waterproof, daylight readable screen.


  • Reverse Polarity Protected
  • Mounts in a common 1-1/8: (29mm) hole


Nominal Voltage 12V / 24V DC

Voltage Range 8V-36V DC

Voltage Accuracy +/- 1%

Maximum Operating Current 15mA

Resolution 0.01V DC

Cutout Dimensions 1-1/8″ (29mm) Diameter


Meter face is IP66-protected against powerful water jets.

The Blue Sea part number is 1733.

A 2 AMP Fuse is required between the positive leg of the meter and incoming positive.

This can either be directly wired to your batter with a cutoff switch for easy off on use. Or wired inline with your ignition voltage. I have a house battery on my system so I’m using a ON – OFF – ON switch so that I can check my Main or my House with the flick of a switch.

Dimensioned Drawing

It’s not overly bright at night so I believe it will work well in a car as well.